Proper Clutch Cable Installation

Tools Required:

Allen Socket (5 mm)

Screwdriver (Regular, Medium Blade)

Punch (Small Blunthead)

Deep Well Socket (11 mm)

Ratchet Wrench (3/8 Drive)

Vise Grips (Small)

Combination Wrench (10 mm)


2 Jackstands

Socket (17 mm)

Plastic Hammer

Vacuum Cleaner!

Supplies And Parts Required:


Silicone Spray

WD-40 Lubricant

Brake Clean


Clutch Cable

Clevis Bushing

Clevis Fork

Clevis Bushing

Banjo Clip

Clutch Cable Boot


Steel Clutch Cable Wedge

Proper clutch cable installation is as follows:

1. Jack the 914 on the engine mounting bar high enough so you can roll under it and work. Support it with two jack stands under the jacking donuts.

2. Remove the driver's floor carpet, pedal pads, center carpeting, front black access plate and wooden floor board.

3. Remove the rear 11 mm clutch adjusting nut at the fork, the clutch cable wedge in the fork and the nut on the roller assembly.

4. Free the banjo clip from the roller assembly and remove the cable and roller from the housing. Slide the old clutch cable boot off (if it is still there!) and save.

5. Unclip the clevis pin from the front clutch cable fork and remove. Pull the cable forward and unscrew the clutch cable fork and locking nut from the clutch cable end. Push out the clevis bushing from the pedal cluster.

6. Remove the cable from the back firewall. Carefully inspect the back firewall at this time. Make sure the tube is protruding and there is no evidence of firewall cracking evident. If there is, or the tube is not protruding (you just see a hole), proceed to review the "Clutch Tube Repair Procedure". 1991 by George Hussey

7. Using WD-40 with a spray wand attachment, spray down the tube. This lubricates the inside of the tube, helps eliminate rust and coats the inside of the tube for easier cable installation.

8. Select the proper clutch cable: There are three to choose from. (1) The original 914-4 which has the exposed cable, surrounded with a white catheter and protruding from the black sheath. (2) The 914-6 cable which is heavier than the "four" cable and does not have the white catheter. (3) The aftermarket "Terry" cable which uses aircraft quality cabling. We always select the 914-6 cable. It is heavier duty than its four brother and is of the proper length (we always find the Terry cables to have too much cable and to be very expensive!)

9. Lubricate the chosen cable with grease (lightly but thoroughly; you don't want it attracting too much dirt) and install into the rear firewall tube pushing it all the way forward until the gold collar engages with the protruding tube.

10. Reach through the front access cover and center tunnel and feel for the front end of the cable. Install the locking nut and clutch cable fork (make sure the fork is not cracked!) Screw the fork on until the cable threads protrude 10 mm into the fork base. Lock the nut against the fork.

11. Replace and grease the clevis bushing in the pedal cluster (The old one was probably egg-shaped). Carefully inspect the clevis pin, then connect the cable fork to the cluster and pin it. Be very careful not to wrap the cable around the accelerator cable! If you do, every time you disengage the clutch, the engine will rev! (It now may be a good time to vacuum this area!)

12. Reinstall the wooden floor board, access plate center tunnel carpeting and pedal pads. Leave out the driver's carpeting for clutch pedal stop adjustment.

13. At the back of the cable, install the banjo clip and stretch the clutch cable boot over the threaded cable end.

14. Thoroughly clean the roller and roller assembly. Lightly grease the roller pivot.

15. Install the clutch cable into the roller housing notch and bend the banjo clip around the assembly until the point of the banjo clip fits into the hole in the back of the roller assembly. Snug up the clutch cable boot.

16. Wrap the cable around the roller and install onto the roller pivot. Tighten the nut and then guide the cable into the fork, securing it with the clutch cable wedge and 11 mm nyloc. Make sure the wedge is the new factory steel style. 914s were originally fitted with a plastic wedge that often broke, stranding the motorist!

17. Tight the 11 mm nyloc nut until the clutch pedal is at the very top of its travel. One should not be able to pull the pedal up any farther. The pedal will have tension on it but for the first 1/2" - 3/4" have much less tension. This lesser tension is called free play as the pedal is taking up cable assembly slack before actually causing the clutch arm to engage the throwout bearing. This free play keeps the throwout bearing from wearing against the pressure plate fingers.

NOTE: If for some reason you run out of adjustment and have to stack washers under the threaded end to achieve adjustment, the clutch tube is broken in the tunnel. Again, refer to the "Clutch Tube Repair Procedure". 1991 by George Hussy

18. Adjust the clutch cable stop: Thoroughly warm the car and idle at 950 RPM. Push the clutch pedal forward until first and reverse gear will engage smoothly without grinding against the pedal. Tighten the stop to the point where it rests against the depressed pedal. Reinstall the driver's carpeting.

19. By now you should have a very easy pushing clutch pedal and good disengagement of gears. Shortly you may need to readjust the cable after it stretches out its newness. From then on periodically recheck free play and adjust. This should not be a common occurrence unless the cable begins to strand (break) or the clutch tube is ripping loose.

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